Pack Creek

At the north end of Admiralty Island, which has been nicknamed by some "fortress of the bears" because of its brown bear population, the bears are protected in a creek drainage known as the Stan Price Wildlife Refuge. Rangers strictly regulate the activities of visitors, and only a couple of dozen people are allowed here each day. Dolphin Charters reserves its spots over a year ahead of time.

On this visit, rain came down heavily throughout the morning as we huddled on a gravel spit at the mouth of Pack Creek. The bears must have thought it was time to sleep in the woods, for none appeared for several hours. Finally, we had a distant view of two of them.

At the lunch break, half the crew decided they'd had enough and stayed aboard the cozy and dry boat. But some of us hiked the mile-long trail to a viewing tower overlooking a stream choked with salmon, and we had great luck here.

(below) Eventually the bear makes its way across the downed tree and goes under the tower, disappearing from view as salmonberry fronds wave madly back and forth, indicating the bear's position.

(Below) An older bear grabs dinner.